Surfing is a surface water sport in which a wave rider, called a surfer, rides ahead or in a moving wave, which usually takes surfers to the shore. Suitable waves for surfing are mainly found in the ocean, but can also be found in lakes or rivers in the form of standing or tidal waves. However, surfers can also take advantage of artificial waves such as those from boats and waves made in artificial wave pools.
The term surfing refers to the action of riding a wave, regardless of whether the wave is driven by a board or without a board, and regardless of the position used. Pacific natives, for example, explore the waves of alaia, paipo, and other crafts, and do so in their abdomen and knees. The modern definition of surfing, however, most often refers to surfers riding waves standing on surfboards; this is also referred to as surf stand-up.
Another prominent form of surfing is body boarding, when a surfer is riding waves on the bodyboard, either lying on their stomach, dropping knees, or sometimes even standing on a body board. Other types of surfing include knee riding, surfing mats (riding inflatable mats), and using foil. Surfing the body, where surfing surf without board, using your own surfer's body to catch and ride the waves, is very common and is considered by some to be the purest form of surfing.
The three main subdivisions in the stands are stand-up paddling, long boarding, and short boarding with some major differences including the design and board length, driving style, and the type of wave being driven.
In tow-in surfing (most often, but not exclusively, associated with surfing big waves), motorized water vehicles, such as private boats, attract surfer to the front of the wave, help the surfer match the velocity of the big wave, which is generally a higher speed than the surfer which can produce itself. Sport-related surfing like rowing and sea kayaking does not require waves, and other derivative sports such as kite surfing and windsurfing depend primarily on wind power, but all these platforms can also be used for riding surf. Recently using a V-drive boat, Wakesurfing, where a person is surfing behind a boat, has appeared. The Guinness Book of World Records recognizes a wave ride as far as 78 feet (23.8 m) by Garrett McNamara in Nazarà ©, Portugal as the biggest wave ever surfed.
Video Surfing
Asal dan sejarah
For hundreds of years, surfing is a central part of ancient Polynesian culture. Surfing was probably first observed by British explorers in Tahiti in 1767. Samuel Wallis and the first British crew member Dolphin were visiting the island in June of that year. Another candidate was the botanist Joseph Banks who became part of James Cook's first voyage at HMS Endeavor, who arrived in Tahiti on April 10, 1769. Lieutenant James King was the first to write about the art of surfing in Hawaii when he completed Captain James Cook's journal of Cook's death in 1779.
When Mark Twain visited Hawaii in 1866 he wrote,
In one place we found a large company of naked people, of both sexes and all ages, entertaining themselves with a national surfing hobby.
References for surfing boarded boats and single boat hulls are also verified for pre-contact Samoa, where surfing is called fa'ase'e or seuegalu (see Augustin Kra  ¤mer, Samoan Islands ), and Tonga, long before dating the practice of surfing by Hawaiians and East Polynesians for over a thousand years.
In July 1885, three Hawaiian princess teenagers took a break from their boarding school, St. Mathew's Hall in San Mateo, and came to cool down in Santa Cruz, California. There, David Kaw? Nanakoa, Edward Keli? Iahonui and Jonah K? Hi? Kalaniana? Ole explored the mouth of the San Lorenzo River on a specially-designed redwood board, according to surf historians Kim Stoner and Geoff Dunn.
George Freeth (November 8, 1883 - April 7, 1919) is often credited as "Father of Modern Surfing". He is considered the first modern surfer.
In 1907, the eclectic interest of the land baron Henry E. Huntington brought the ancient art of surfing to the coast of California. While on vacation, Huntington has seen Hawaiian boys surfing in the surf of the island. Looking for ways to attract visitors to the Redondo Beach area, where he invested heavily in real estate, he hired a young Hawaiian to board a surfboard. George Freeth decided to revive the art of surfing, but had little success with the popular 16-foot wooden board at that time. When he cuts it in half to make it more manageable, he creates the original "long board", which makes him talk about the islands. To delight visitors, Freeth showcased his surfing skills twice daily in front of the Redondo Hotel.
In 1975, a professional contest began. That year Margo Oberg became the first female professional surfer.
Maps Surfing
Surf wave
The swelling is generated when the wind is blowing consistently over a large area of ​​open water, called wind picking. The size of a large wave is determined by the strength of the wind and the length of its taking and its duration. Therefore, surfing tends to be larger and more common in coastlines exposed to vast expanses of ocean through intense low-pressure systems.
Local wind conditions affect the quality of the wave, as the wave surface can become choppy in windy conditions. Ideal conditions include mild "offshore wind", until medium blowing to the front of the wave, making it a "barrel" or "tube" wave. Waves are the left hand and the right hand depending on the broken wave formation.
Waves are generally recognized by the surface where they break. For example, there is a Beach break, a Reef break and a Point break.
The most important influence on the waveform is the topography of the ocean floor just behind and directly below the breaking waves. Coral contour lines or front bars become stretched by diffraction. Each break is different, because the underwater topography of each location is unique. On the beach break, sand dunes change shape from week to week. Surfing forecasting is aided by advances in information technology. Mathematical modeling graphically depicts the size and direction of waves around the world.
The swelling of order varies worldwide and throughout the year. During the winter, large waves form in the middle latitudes, as the north and south poles shift toward the Equator. The western-dominated wind produces a wave that advances towards the East, making it the largest tide wave on the West coast during the winter. However, the endless mid-latitude cyclone train causes the isobar to wavy, directing swelling at regular intervals into the tropics.
The eastern beaches also receive severe winter waves when low pressure cells form in sub-tropical regions, where slow motion moves inhibit their movement. This low yields a shorter retrieval from the polar front, but they can still produce large waves, because their slower movements increase the duration of certain wind direction. The picking and duration variables both affect how long the wind acts on the wave as it moves, because the wave reaching the end of behavior behaves as if the wind died.
During the summer, large waves form when cyclones form in the tropics. Tropical cyclones are formed over warm oceans, so their events are influenced by El Nià ± o & amp; La NiÃÆ' ± one cycle. Their movement is unpredictable.
Surf trips and several surf camps offer surfers access to a remote tropical location, where traders ensure offshore conditions. Since winter waves are generated by a mid-latitude cyclone, their regularity coincides with the passage of this low point. The swells come with pulses, each lasting for several days, with several days between each big wave.
The availability of free model data from NOAA has enabled the creation of several surf forecasting websites.
wave intensity
Artificial Coral
The value of good waves in attracting surfing tourism has encouraged the development of artificial reefs and sand. Artificial surfaces can be built with sandbags or long-lasting concrete, and resemble submerged solvents. These artificial reefs not only provide surfing locations, but also dissipate wave energy and protect shorelines from erosion. Ships like Seli 1 that accidentally stranded in the sand floor, can create a sand dune that raises good waves.
The artificial reef known as Chevron Reef was built in El Segundo, California in hopes of creating a new surf area. However, the reefs failed to produce quality waves and were removed in 2008. In Kovalam, Southwest India, artificial reefs, however, succeeded in providing local communities with quality lefthanders, stable erosion of coastal soils, and providing a good habitat for marine life. ASR Ltd., a New Zealand-based company, built the Kovalam reef and is working on another coral reef in Boscombe, England.
Artificial waves
Even with artificial reefs in place, a tourist's holiday time can coincide with a "flat spell", when no waves are available. The truly artificial Wave Pool aims to solve the problem by controlling all the elements that go into creating the perfect waves, but there are only a handful of wave pools that can simulate a good surf wave, mainly due to construction and operation costs and potential liability. Most wave pools produce waves that are too small and lack the power needed for surfing. The Seagaia Ocean Dome, located in Miyazaki, Japan, is an example of a waves that can be traced. Able to produce waves with up to 10-foot faces, a special pump holds water in 20 vertical tanks positioned along the rear edge of the pool. This allows the wave to be directed as it approaches the artificial seabed. Lefts, Rights, and A-frames can be directed from the design of this pump which provides surfing and barrel that can be achieved. The cost of the Ocean Dome is about $ 2 billion to build and expensive to maintain. The Ocean Dome closed in 2007. In England, the construction is almost complete on the Wave, located near Bristol, which will allow people unable to go to the beach to enjoy the waves in a controlled environment, located in the heart of nature.
There are two main types of artificial waves that exist today. One is an artificial or stationary wave that simulates a moving wave breaker by pumping a water layer against a fine structure that mimics a broken waveform. Because the speed of the water flowing waves and surfers can remain silent while water flows beneath the surfboard. Such artificial waves provide an opportunity to try surfing and learn the basics in a fairly small and controlled environment near or far from a location with natural surfing.
Other artificial waves can be made through the use of wave pools such as Kelly Slater's Wave Co. and NLand Surf Park in Austin, TX. This wave pool seeks to create waves that replicate real ocean waves more than stationary waves. In 2018, the first professional surfing tournament in the wave pool was held.
Surfers and surf culture
Surfers represent a diverse culture based on wave riding. Some people practice surfing as a recreational activity while others make it the main focus in their lives. The most dominant surfing culture in Hawaii and California is because these two countries offer the best surfing conditions. However, the waves can be found wherever there is a shoreline, and a strict but far-reaching surfer subculture has emerged throughout America. Some cultural history markers include woodies, station wagons used to carry surfboard boards, as well as boards, long swimsuits that are usually worn while surfing. Surfers also wear wetsuits in colder areas.
Surfing sports is now representing a multibillion dollar industry especially in the apparel and fashion market. The World Surf League (WSL) hosts a championship tour, hosting the top competitors in some of the best surf spots around the world. A small number of people make careers of surfing by accepting corporate sponsorships and performing for photographers and videographers at distant destinations; they are usually referred to as freesurfers. Sixty-six surfers on a 42-foot surfboard set a record in Huntington Beach, California for most people on a surfboard at once. As for people who take it more seriously, like Dale Webster, he sequentially explores for 14,641 days, making him the main focus of his life.
When the waves are flat, surfers keep surfing the sidewalk, which is now called skateboarding. The sidewalks on the sidewalks have the same feel for surfing and only require paved roads or sidewalks. To create the feel of the waves, surfers even sneak into the empty backyard swimming pool to ride, known as skating ponds. Finally, surfing makes its way to the slopes with the invention of Snurfer, then credited as the first snowboard. Many other board sports have been created over the years, but all can trace their heritage back to surfing.
Many surfers claim to have a spiritual connection with the ocean, describing surfing, surfing experiences, both inside and outside the water, as a kind of spiritual or religious experience.
Maneuver
Surfing standup begins when the surfer paddles to the shore in an attempt to match the wave velocity (The same is true whether the surfer is rowing stands, bodysurfing, boogie-boarding or using some other boat type, such as waves or kayaks). After the wave began to bring the surfer forward, the surfer stood up and proceeded to ride the wave. The basic idea is to position the surfboard so that it is right in front of the broken part (chalk) of the wave. A common problem for beginners is being able to catch waves altogether.
The surfers' skills are tested by their ability to control their boards in difficult conditions, riding challenging waves, and maneuvers such as strong turns and cuts (rotating the board back to breaking waves) and engraving (series of maneuvers back-to-back is strong). More advanced skills include floater (riding on a curved wave), and out of the lips (separating breaks). The new addition to surfing is the development of the air where the surfer pushes the wave fully into the air, and then succeeds in landing the board back on the waves.
The journey of the tube is considered a major maneuver in surfing. When the waves break, if the conditions are ideal, the waves will break sequentially from the middle to the shoulders, allowing experienced surfers to position themselves inside the wave when it breaks. This is known as a ride tube. Seen from the shore, the tube rider may disappear from view as a wave breaks over the head of the rider. The longer the surfer stays inside the tube, the more successful his journey will be. This is referred to as getting tubing, barreled, shacked or pitted. Some of the world's famous waves to ride tubes include Pipe Channels on the North shore of Oahu, Teahupoo in Tahiti and G-Land in Java. Other names for the tube include "barrel", and "hole".
Hang ten and hang five moves usually special for long boarding. Hanging Ten means having both legs at the front end of the board with all the toes of the surfer on the edge, also known as the rising nose. Hang Five has only one leg near the front, with five toes apart from the edge.
Cutting: Generate speed in line and then back in reverse direction.
Floater: Pause the board over the waves. Very popular in small waves.
Top Turn: Turn off the top of the wave. Sometimes it is used to generate speed and sometimes to shoot sprays.
Air/Aerial: This maneuver has become increasingly prevalent in sports both in competition and in free surfing. Air is when the surfer can reach sufficient speed and approach a certain kind of part of the wave that should act as a path and launch a surfer above the lip line of wave, "catch the air", and land either in wave or lime transitions when hitting the close-out.
Air can be either straight air or air rotation. The straight air has a minimal rotation if any, but certainly no rotation is more than 90 degrees. Air rotation requires a rotation of 90 degrees or more depending on the level of the surfer.
Rotation type:
180 degrees - called reverse air, this is when the surfer spins enough to land backwards, then return to its original position with the help of the flippers. This rotation can be done on the front or back, and can rotate to the right or left.
360 degrees - this is a full air rotation or "full rotor" where surfers land where they start or over, as long as they do not land backwards. When this is reached the front side of the revolving wave reverse of the air reverse is called the oop gang.
540 - the surfer does a full rotation plus 180 degrees more, and can reverse or spin straight, some surfers have been able to land this air.
Backflip - usually done with a double grab, it's difficult to land an air made for elite level surfers.
Rodeo flip - usually done on the back, this is a backflip with 180 rotations, and is actually easier than a straight backflip.
Grabs - a surfer can help land an air maneuver by grabbing a surfboard, keeping them attached to the board and keeping the board under their feet. Common types of seizures include:
Indy - a surfer forcing (inside the front rail, outside the back rail) with the back of the hand
Slob - a surfer (on the front rail, outside the back rail) with their front hand.
Lien - Pick up on the surfer (outside the front of the train, inside the back rail) with their front hand
Stalefish - Scramble on the surfer (outside the front of the rail, in the rear rail) with the back of their hands.
Double grab - Pick up on surfer inside and outside the rails, rails inside with rear hands and external rail with front arm.
Requirements
Surfing glossary includes some extensive vocabulary used to describe various aspects of surfing as described in the literature on the subject. In some cases, the term has spread to wider cultural uses. These terms were originally created by people directly involved in surfing sports.
Learn
Many popular surfing destinations have surfing schools and surf camps that offer lessons. Surf camp for beginners and intermediate is a multi-day lesson focusing on the basics of surfing. They are designed to take on new surfers and help them become proficient riders. All inclusive internet browsing offers accommodation, meals, lessons and surfboards overnight. Most of the surfing lessons begin with the instruction and direction of safety on the ground, followed by instructors who help students into waves on long boards or "soft boards". The softboard is considered an ideal surfboard for learning, as it is safer, and has more pedaling speed and stability than shorter boards. Funboards are also a popular form for beginners as it combines longboard volumes and stability with smaller surfboard sizes. New and inexperienced surfers are usually learning to catch waves on soft boards around the size of a 7-8 foot board game. Due to the softness of the surfboard, the chances of injury are substantially minimized.
Typical surfing instructions are best done one on one, but can also be done in group settings. The most popular surfing locations offer perfect surfing conditions for beginners, as well as challenging breaks for advanced students. The ideal condition for learning is a small wave that collapses and breaks gently, compared to the steep, fast-peeling waves desired by more experienced surfers. If available, the sandy ocean floor is generally safer.
Surfing can be broken down into several skills: Rowing power, Position to catch waves, time, and balance. Pedaling out requires strength, but also mastery of techniques to break through the upcoming waves ( duck dive , eskimo roll ). The take-off position requires experience in predicting the waveforms and where they will be broken. The surfer should appear quickly as soon as the wave starts pushing the board forward. The position chosen on the wave is determined by the experience on the wave reading feature including where the wave is broken. Balance plays an important role in standing on a surfboard. Thus, balance exercise is a good preparation. Practicing with balance boards or swing boards helps beginners master the art.
Tools
Surfing can be done in a variety of equipment, including surfboards, long boards, board up paddle (SUP's), bodyboards, skateboard, skimboards, kneeboards, surf surf, and macca's trays. The surf board was originally made of solid wood and large and heavy (often up to 12 feet or 3.7 m long and weighing 150 kg or 68 kg). Lightweight balsa wood surfboards (first built in the late 1940s and early 1950s) were significant improvements, not only in portability, but also in improving maneuverability.
Most modern surfboards are made of fiberglass foam (PU), with one or more strips of wood or "stringer", fiberglass cloth, and polyester resin (PE). The emerging board material is epoxy resin and Expanded Polystyrene foam (EPS) which is stronger and lighter than traditional PU/PE construction. Even newer designs incorporate materials such as variable carbon-fiber and flexible composites in conjunction with fiberglass and epoxy or polyester resins. Because epoxy/EPS surfboards are generally lighter, they will float better than traditional PU/PE boards of the same size, shape and thickness. This makes them easier to paddle and faster in the water. However, the common complaint of EPS boards is that they do not provide as much feedback as traditional PU/PE boards. For this reason, many advanced surfers prefer their surfboards made from traditional materials.
Other equipment including straps (to stop the board from drifting after wipeout, and to prevent it from hitting other surfers), surf candles, traction bearings (to keep the surfer's foot from slipping off the board deck), and flippers (Also known as skegs ) that can be permanently attached ( glass-on ) or interchangeable. Sportswear designed or very suitable for surfing can be sold as boardwear (this term is also used in snowboarding). In warmer climates, swimsuits, surfing pants or board boards are worn, and occasionally rash guards; in cold water surfers can choose to wear wetsuits, boots, hoods, and gloves to protect them against lower water temperatures. The new introduction is a rash vest with a thin layer of titanium to provide maximum warmth without sacrificing mobility. In recent years, there have been advances in technology that enable surfers to pursue larger waves with additional security elements. Surviving large surfers are now experimenting with rubber vests or colored dye packs to help reduce their likelihood of drowning.
There are many sizes of surfboards, shapes, and designs used today. Modern long boards, generally 9 to 10 feet (2.7 to 3.0 m) long, reminiscent of the earliest surfboards, but now benefit from modern innovations in the design of surfboards and fins. Competitive longboard surfers must be competent on traditional walking maneuvers, as well as short radiuses typically associated with short board surfing. Modern shortboards began life in the late 1960s and have evolved into today's thruster style, defined by three fins, usually about 6 to 7 feet (1.8 to 2.1 m) long. Thruster was created by the Australian builder Simon Anderson.
Medium boards, often called funboards, provide more maneuverability than longboard, with more flotation than short boards. While many surfers find that funboards match their name, providing the best of both surfing modes, others are very important.
- "This is a mediocre happy medium," writes Steven Kotler. "The soundboard rider has nothing left to prove or lack the skills to prove anything."
There are also various niche styles, such as Egg , longboard-style short boards aimed at people who want to ride a shortboard but need more rowing power. The Fish , the boards are usually shorter, flatter, and wider than regular short boards, often with separate tails (known as the swallow tail ). Fish often have two or four fins and are designed specifically for surfing in smaller waves. For big waves there are Gun , long, thick boards with pointed nose and tail (known as tail pins) designed specifically for large waves.
Surfing physics
Surfing physics involves the physical oceanographic properties of wave creation in the surf zone, the characteristics of a surfboard, and the interaction of surfers with water and boards.
Waveform
Sea waves are defined as a collection of dislocated water parcels whose cycles are forced through their normal position and recovered to their normal position. Wind causes ripples and vortices to form waves that gradually increase speed and distance (fetch). Waves increase energy and speed, and then become longer and stronger. The fully developed ocean has the strongest wave action that has a storm that lasts 10 hours and creates a wave height of 15 meters in the open ocean.
Waves formed in the open sea are classified as deep water waves. The waves in water have no bottom interactions and the orbits of these water molecules are circular; their wavelengths are relatively short to the water depth and the velocity decays before reaching the bottom of the water basin. The deep waves have a depth of more than ½ their wavelength. The wind forced the waves to break in the deep ocean.
Waves of water are on the way to shore and become shallow water waves. Shallow water waves have a depth of less than ½ their wavelength. The shallow wave length wavelength is relatively long against the water depth and has an elliptical orbital. The wave velocity affects the entire water basin. Water interacts with the bottom as it approaches the shore and has a dragging interaction. Interesting interaction at the bottom of the wave, causing refraction, increasing height, decreasing speed (or wave speed), and peak (crest) falling. This phenomenon occurs because the top speed of the wave is greater than the speed of the underside of the wave.
The surf zone is a convergence of many types of waves that create complex wave patterns. Waves suitable for surfing results from a maximum speed of 5 meters per second. This speed is relative because local ground winds can cause breaks. In the surf zone, shallow water waves are carried by the global wind to the coast and interact with the local wind to make surf waves.
Different ground and offshore wind patterns in the surf zone create different types of waves. The ground wind causes a random pattern breaker and is more suitable for experienced surfers. Offshore winds create smoother waves, while strong offshore winds cause big waves. The turquoise waves are large because of the small water depths when the waves break. Thus, the breaking intensity (or strength) increases, and the wave and high velocity increases. Offshore winds produce conditions that can not be planted by flattening weak waves. The weak swelling is made of the gravitational force of the surface and has a long wavelength.
Wave conditions for surfing
Surfing waves can be analyzed using the following parameters: breaking wave height, wave peak angle (?), Wave termination intensity, and wave length. The breaking wave height has two measurements, the relative height estimated by the surfer and the exact measurements made by the physical oceanographer. Measurements made by surfers are 1.36 to 2.58 times higher than measurements made by scientists. The scientifically achievable wave height that allows for surfing is 1 to 20 meters.
The angle of the wave shell is one of the main elements of a potential surf surge. The peeled angle of the wave measures the distance between the peel-line and the line intersecting with the shoot-break line. This angle controls the peak wave velocity. The wave velocity is the addition of the velocity velocity propagation (Vw) and the peel velocity vector (Vp), which results in the overall velocity of the wave (Vs).
The intensity of the wave termination measures the strength of a wave when it is broken, spilled, or lapsed (the plunge wave is called by the surfer as "wave per barrel"). The length of the wave portion is the distance between two crack peaks in a set of waves. The length of the wave section can be difficult to measure because local winds, non-linear wave interactions, island shelter, and swollen interactions can lead to varied wave configurations in the surf zone.
The parameters that break the wave height, the wave peak angle (?), And the intensity of the wave termination, and the length of the wave portion are important because they are standardized by the past oceanologists who surveyed the surf; these parameters have been used to create guidelines that match the type of wave formed and the level of surfer skills.
Table 1 shows the smaller peel angle relationship correlated with higher skill levels of surfers. The smaller wave-shell angle increases the wave velocity. A surfer should know how to react and row quickly to fit the speed of the waves to catch it. Therefore, more experience is needed to capture the low peak corner wave. In addition, more experienced surfers can handle longer lengths, increased speed, and higher wave height. Different locations offer different types of surf conditions for each skill level.
Surf Break
Surf break is an area with an obstruction or an object that causes a break. Surf Break requires some scale phenomena. The waveform creation has a micro scale factor from the peel angle and the wave breaking intensity. The micro component affects wave heights and variations in wave crests. The mesosphere component of the intermittent break is a ramp, platform, slice, or ledge that may exist on the surf break. The macroscale process is a global wind that originally produced offshore waves. Types of surf breaks are headland (pause point), beach break, river door/estuary bar, broken coral, and break balustrades.
Headland (pause)
A cape or break point interacts with water by causing refraction around the point or headland. The bottom line absorbs high frequency waves and long periods of survival waves, which are easier to surf. Examples of locations that have a snooze or resting point due to surf breaks are Dunedin (New Zealand), Raglan, Malibu (California), Rincon (California), and Kirra (Australia).
Beach break
A beach vacation takes place where the waves break from the waves offshore, and sand dunes on the beach and rips. Breaking waves occur respectively on the beach break. Examples of locations are Tairua and Aramoana Beach (New Zealand) and Gold Coast (Australia).
River or entrance of the estuary
A railroad door or a river creates a wave of ebb and flow, sediment flow, and tidal currents. An ideal estuary entrance bar is at Whangamata Bar, New Zealand.
Coral reef
Coral reefs are very conducive to surfing because large waves consistently break down corals. Coral reefs are usually made of coral, and because of this, many injuries occur when surfing the reef. However, the waves generated by coral reefs are some of the best in the world. The famous coral reefs are present in Padang Padang (Indonesia), Pipeline (Hawaii), Uluwatu (Bali), and Teahupo'o (Tahiti).
Termination of the ledge
A ledge break is formed by a steep rock cliff that makes intense waves as the waves travel through deeper water then suddenly reach the shallow water on the ledge. Shark Island, Australia is a location with a break ledge. Stopping balusters makes surfing conditions difficult, sometimes allowing only body surfing as the only viable way to face the waves.
Jetties and their effects on wave formations in the surf zone
Jetties are added to water bodies to regulate erosion, preserve the navigation channel, and create ports. Jetties are classified into four types and have two main control variables: delta type and jetty size.
Type 1 dock
The first classification is the type 1 dock. This type of dock is significantly longer than the width of the surf zone and the breakwater at the edge of the pier. The effect of the Type 1 dock is the accumulation of sediment in the slice formation at the dock. These waves are large and increase as they pass through the sedimentary sediment formation. Examples of Type 1 docks are Mission Beach, San Diego, California. This 1000-meter pier was installed in 1950 at the mouth of Mission Bay. Waves occur in the north of the pier, longer waves, and stronger. The sea bedimeter in Mission Bay has a wedge formation that causes waves to blend as they get closer to the dock. Waves meet constructively after they refract and increase the size of the waves.
Type 2 jetty
Type 2 docks occur in the tidal delta, the transition delta between high and low tides. This area has the shallow waters, refraction, and typical seabed shape that creates the height of the big waves.
An example of a type 2 jetty is called "The Poles" in Atlantic Beach, Florida. Atlantic Beach is known to have flat waves, with the exception of large storms. However, the "Pole" has a larger than normal wave due to a 500 meter dock mounted on the south side of St. Johns. This dock is built to create deep channels in the river. This forms the delta in "The Poles". This is a special area because the jetty increases the wave size for surfing, when comparing the pre-conditions and post-conditions of the St. River's mouth area. South Johns.
The size of the waves in the "Pole" depends on the direction of the incoming water. When the eastern waters (from 55 Â °) interact with the docks, they create waves larger than the southern waters (from 100 Â °). When the south wave (from 100 Â °) moves towards the "Pole", one of the waves breaks out in the north of the southern jetty and the other separates the south of the pier. This does not allow merging to create larger waves. Easter waves, from 55 °, fuse north of the pier and unite to create larger waves.
Jetty Type 3
Type 3 docks are in tidal areas with unchanged seabed that naturally creates waves. An example of a Type 3 jetty occurs in "Southside" Tamarack, Carlsbad, California.
Type 4 dock
Pier type 4 is no longer functioning or sediment trap. The waves are created from the reefs in the surf zone. A type 4 dock can be found in Tamarack, Carlsbad, California.
Rip Flow
Rip currents are fast and narrow currents caused by ground transport within the surf zone and the return of seawater in a sequential direction. The wedge bathymetry keeps a consistent and consistent 5-meter rip current that brings the surfers to a "take off point" and goes out to the beach.
Marine experts have two theories about tearing down the current formation. The wave interaction model assumes that the two sides of the wave interact, creating different wave heights, and causing coastline parallel transport along the coast. The Boundary Interaction Model assumes that topographic seabed leads to near-shore circulation and parallel coastal transport; the result of both models is rip current.
Rip currents can be very strong and narrow as they exit the surf zone into deeper water, reaching speeds of 1-2 feet per second to 8 feet per second. Water in jets is rich sediments, rich bubbles, and moves quickly. The rip head rip current has a long beach movement. Rip currents usually occur on the beach with sloping slopes that experience large and frequent ocean waves.
Vorticity and rip current inertia have been studied. From the rip current vorticity model performed at Scripps Institute of Oceanography, it was found that the rapid rip current extends from shallow water, increased current vorticity, and decreased current width. The model also recognizes that friction plays a role and the waves are irregular. From data from the Sector-Scanning Doppler Sonar at the Scripps Institute of Oceanography, it was found that rip currents in La Jolla, CA lasted several minutes, recurring one to four times per hour, and creating sections with a 45 Â ° curve and a radius of 200 -400 meters.
On the surfboard
Long surfboards (10 feet) cause more friction with water; therefore, will be slower than a lighter board (6 feet). Longer boards are good for beginners who need balancing aids. The smaller boards are great for more experienced surfers who want to have more control and maneuverability.
When practicing surfing, surfers paddle past the waves to wait for the waves. When the waves come, the surfer must row very quickly to adjust the wave speed so the wave can speed it up.
When the surfer is at wave speed, the surfer should quickly appear, stay low, and stay ahead of the wave to stabilize and prevent falling as the wave rises. Acceleration is less forward than backward. The physics behind the wave surfaces involves a horizontal acceleration force (Fsin?) And a vertical force (Fcos? = Mg). Therefore, the surfer should lean forward to get more speed, and lean on the back foot to brake. Also, to increase the wavelength, the surfer must travel parallel to the wave crest.
Important location
- View Category: Surfing locations.
Dangers
Sink
Surfing, like all water sports, carries the drowning dangers inherent. Anyone at any age can learn to surf, but should at least have medium swim skills. Although the board helps a surfer to remain afloat, he can be separate from the user. Leash, attached to the ankle or knee, can make the board not drift, but does not keep the rider on board or on water. In some cases, it may include the sinking of professional surfer Mark Foo, the retaining line can even be the cause of drowning by getting stuck on coral reefs or other objects and holding surfer underwater. By keeping the surfboard close to the surfer during wipeout, the rope also increases the likelihood that the board may attack the rider, who can knock it down or unconscious and cause drowning. The fallen rider's board can be trapped in a larger wave, and if the rider is attached with a rope, he can be dragged for long distances underwater. Surfers should be careful to keep surfing smaller until they gain the advanced skills and experience needed to handle larger waves and more challenging conditions. However, even world-class surfers have sunk in very challenging conditions.
Collisions
Under false conditions, anything a surfers can contact is potentially a danger, including sand, rocks, little ice, coral reefs, surfboards, and other surfers. Collisions with these objects can sometimes cause injuries such as cuts and scrapes and in rare cases, death.
A large number of injuries, up to 66%, are caused by collisions with surfboards (nose or fins). The fins can cause deep laceration and injury, as well as bruises. While these injuries can be mild, they can open the skin for infection from the sea; groups such as Campaign Fight Surfers for cleaner water to reduce the risk of infection. Lice and local disease can be a dangerous factor when surfing around the world.
Falling off surfboards or colliding with others is often referred to as wipeout .
Sea life
Marine life can sometimes cause injury and even death. Animals such as sharks, stingrays, Weever fish, seals, and jellyfish can sometimes pose a danger. Warm water surfers often perform "stingray shuffle" as they walk out through shallow water, dragging their feet in the sand to frighten the ray fish that may be resting on the bottom.
Rip stream
The rip current is the water channel that flows away from the shore. In the wrong situation, these currents can endanger the inexperienced and inexperienced surfers. Because the torn currents appear to be flat water areas, weary or inexperienced swimmers or surfers can enter one of them and be carried outside the broken waves. Although many rip currents are much smaller, the largest rip currents have a width of forty or fifty feet. However, by pedaling parallel to the shore, the surfer can easily get out of the rip current. As an alternative, some surfers actually rip the rip currents because this is a quick and easy way to get out of the wave zone.
Seabed
The seabed can pose a danger to surfers. If a surfer drops off while riding the waves, the waves soar and drop the surfer, often downward. At break time coral reefs and beach breaks, surfers have been severely injured and even killed by a hard collision with the seabed, the water above which can sometimes be very shallow, especially on the beach break or coral breaks during low tide. Cyclops, Western Australia, for example, is one of the largest and thickest corals in the world, with waves reaching up to 10 meters, but the reef below is only about 2 meters (6.6 feet) below the surface of the water.
Microorganisms
A January 2018 study by Exeter University called "Beach Bum Survey" found surfers and bodyboarders to be three times as likely as non-surfers to protect antibiotic resistant E. coli and four times more likely to protect bacteria others who can easily become resistant to antibiotics. The researchers attribute this to the fact that surfers swallow about ten times as much seawater as swimmers.
Gallery
See also
References
Further reading
- Baron, Zach (May 15, 2017). "At Home With The Best Surfer on the Planet". GQ . Retrieved December 11, 2017 . Ã,
External links
- World Surf League
- Total Surf
- Beachcam
[Category: Sport from the United States]
Source of the article : Wikipedia
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