Sewing Machine is a machine used to sew fabrics and other materials along with yarn. Sewing machines were discovered during the first Industrial Revolution to reduce the amount of manual sewing work done in clothing companies. Since the invention of the first working sewing machine, generally regarded as the work of Thomas Saint England in 1790, sewing machines have greatly improved the efficiency and productivity of the clothing industry.
A home sewing machine is designed for one person to sew individual items while using a single puncture type. In modern sewing machines, the fabric easily slips in and out of the machine without the discomfort of needles and thimbles and other tools used in hand sewing, automates the seam process and saves time.
Industrial sewing machines, in contrast to domestic machines, are larger, faster, and more varied in size, cost, appearance, and task.
Video Sewing machine
History
Discovery
Charles Fredrick Wiesenthal, a German-born engineer working in England was awarded the first British patent for mechanical tools to help the art of sewing, in 1755. His invention consisted of a double pointy needle with an eye on one end.
In 1790, British inventor Thomas Saint discovered the first sewing machine design, but he did not succeed in advertising or marketing his invention. The machine is intended for use on leather and canvas. It is quite possible that Saint has a working model but there is no single proof; He is a skilled cabinet maker and his tools include many practical practical features: an upward-pointing arm, a feed mechanism (enough for short skins), a vertical needle bar, and a rotary device.
The sewing machine uses a stitching chain method, in which the machine uses a single thread to make simple stitches on the fabric. A stitcher will pierce the material and the branching stem will carry the yarn through the hole where it will be hooked underneath it and move to the next suture where the cycle will repeat, locking the puncture. The Saint machine is designed to help manufacture a variety of leather goods, including saddles and bridles, but also able to work with canvas, and is used for sewing ship screens. Although the engine is highly sophisticated for this era, the concept will require a steady increase over the next few decades before it can be a practical proposition. In 1874, a sewing machine factory, William Newton Wilson, discovered Saint's drawings in the London Patent Office, made adjustments to the looper, and built a functioning machine, which is currently owned by the London Science Museum.
In 1804, a sewing machine was built by Englishmen Thomas Stone and James Henderson, and a machine for embroidery was built by John Duncan in Scotland. An Austrian tailor, Josef Madersperger, began developing his first sewing machine in 1807. He presented his first work machine in 1814. After receiving financial support from his government, an Austrian tailor worked on the development of his machine until 1839 but he could not make anything of value. Maybe the tailor does not have any technical intelligence, maybe technical knowledge, and maybe - simple luck. But the fact remains that state money is wasted. However, in 1939 he built machines mimicking the weaving process using a puncture chain.
The first practical and widely used sewing machine was invented by BarthÃÆ' Â © lemy Thimonnier, a French tailor, in 1829. His machine sewed straight stitches using chain stitches like the Saint model, and in 1830, he signed a contract with Auguste Ferrand, a mining engineer , who made the necessary drawings and applied for a patent. The patent for his machine was issued on July 17, 1830, and in the same year, he opened (with partners) the world's first motorized clothing manufacturing company to create army uniforms for the French Army. However, the plant was burned, reported by workers fearing losing their livelihoods after the issuance of patents.
This machine model is on display at the London Science Museum. This machine is made of wood and uses a spiny needle that passes down through the fabric to pick up the thread and pull it up to form a loop to be locked by the next loop. The first American lockstitch sewing machine was invented by Walter Hunt in 1832. The machine used an eye-choked needle (with eyes and dots on the same end) carrying the top yarn and fall of the fallen plane carrying the bottom thread. The curved needle moves through the fabric horizontally, leaving the circle when it is pulled. The shuttle passes the loop, connecting the thread. The feed leaves the engine off, so the machine must be stopped and reset frequently. Hunt eventually lost interest in his machine and sold individual machines without bothering to patent his invention, and merely patented it in late 1854. In 1842, John Greenough patented the first sewing machine in the United States. The British colleagues of Newton and Archibold introduced a pointed needle and the use of two pressing surfaces to keep the fabric parts fixed in position, in 1841.
The first machine that incorporated all the different elements of the previous half century innovations into a modern sewing machine was a device built by British inventor John Fisher in 1844, making it slightly earlier than a very similar machine built by Isaac Merritt Singer in 1851., and the lesser known Elias Howe, in 1845. However, due to Fisher's failed patent application at the Patent Office, he did not receive proper recognition for modern sewing machines in priority legal disputes with Singer, and it was Singer who won the patent benefit.
Industrial competition
Elias Howe, born in Spencer, Massachusetts, invented his sewing machine in 1845, using a method similar to Fisher, except that the cloth was held vertically. An important improvement on the machine is to keep the needle off the point, starting from the eye. After a long stay in England trying to attract interest in his machine, he returned to America to find various people who violated his patents, among them Isaac Merritt Singer. He eventually won a case for patent infringement in 1854 and was awarded the right to claim royalties from producers using ideas covered by his patents, including Singer.
Singer had spotted a revolving sewing machine in a Boston store. As an engineer, he thought it was awkward and decided to design better. The machine he designed with the plane crashed, not the rotating; the needle is mounted vertically and includes the foot press to hold the cloth in place. It has a fixed arm to hold the needle and includes a base voltage system. This machine combines elements of Thimonnier, Hunt, and Howe machines. The singer was granted an American patent in 1851, and was advised to patent the foot pedal, which was used to turn on some of its engines; unfortunately, the foot pedal has been used for too long for the patent to be issued. When Howe found out about Singer's machine, he took him to court, where Howe won and Singer was forced to pay some money for all the machines he had produced. Singer then took the license under Howe's patent and paid him $ 1.15 per machine before entering into a joint partnership with a lawyer named Edward Clark. They create the first purchase arrangements that allow people to buy their machines through payments from time to time.
Meanwhile, Allen B. Wilson developed a space shuttle that retaliates in a short bow, which is an improvement over Singer and Howe. However, John Bradshaw had patented a similar device and threatened to sue, so Wilson decided to try a new method. He partnered with Nathaniel Wheeler to produce the engine with a swivel hook instead of the space shuttle. It's much quieter and more subtle than other methods, with the result that Wheeler & amp; Wilson Company produced more machines in the 1850s and 1860s than any other manufacturer. Wilson also discovered a four-way motion mechanism that is still visible on every sewing machine today. It has forward, backward, backward and upward movement, which pulls the fabric through smooth and even movement. Charles Miller patented the first machine to sew the buttonhole. Throughout the 1850s more and more companies were formed, each trying to sue the other for patent infringement. This sparked a patent bush known as the Sewing Machine War.
In 1856, the Combination of Sewing Machine was formed, consisting of Singer, Howe, Wheeler, Wilson, Grover and Baker. These four companies collect their patents, with the result that all other producers must obtain a license and pay $ 15 per machine. This went on until 1877 when the last patent expired.
James Edward Allen Gibbs (1829-1902), a farmer from Raphine in Rockbridge County, Virginia patented the first single-thread stitch chain sewing machine on June 2, 1857. In partnership with James Willcox, Gibbs became a key partner in Willcox & Gibbs Sewing Machine Company. Willcox & amp; Commercial Gibbs sewing machines are still in use in the 21st century.
Deployment and maturation
William Jones began making sewing machines in 1859 and in 1860 formed a partnership with Thomas Chadwick. Like Chadwick & amp; Jones, they produced sewing machines at Ashton-under-Lyne, England until 1863. Their machines used the designs of Howe and Wilson that were manufactured under license. Thomas Chadwick later joined Bradbury & amp; Co William Jones opened a factory in Guide Bridge, Manchester in 1869. In 1893, a Jones advertisement sheet claimed that the factory was "Britain's Largest Factory Exclusively Creating a First-Class Sewing Machine". The company was renamed Jones Sewing Machine Co. Ltd. and later acquired by Brother Industries of Japan, in 1968.
The clothing manufacturer is the customer of the first sewing machine, and uses it to produce the first ready-made clothing and shoes. In the 1860s consumers began to buy them, and the machines - ranging from £ 6 to £ 15 in the UK depending on features - became very common in middle class homes. Owners are much more likely to spend free time with their machines to make and fix clothes for their families than visiting friends, and women's magazines and household guides like Ny. Beeton's offers pattern and clothing instructions. Sewing machines can produce men's shirts in about an hour, compared to 14 1/2 hours by hand.
In 1877, the world's first knitting machine was invented and patented by Joseph M. Merrow, who at the time was president of what began in the 1840s as a machine shop to develop a special machine for knitting operations. This crochet machine is the first production overlock sewing machine. The Merrow Machine Company went on to become one of America's largest Overlock Sewing Machine Manufacturers and continues to be a global presence in the 21st century as America's last over-lock sewing machine manufacturer.
In 1885 Singer patented the Singer Vibrating Shuttle sewing machine, which used the Allen B. Wilson idea for a vibrating space shuttle and was a better lockstitch than the oscillating transport at the time. Millions of machines, perhaps the world's first truly practical sewing machine for domestic use, were produced until they were replaced by rotary space shuttle engines in the 20th century. Sewing machines continue to be made for roughly the same design, with more luxurious decorations emerging through the 1900s.
The first electric machine was developed by Singer Sewing Co. and was introduced in 1889. At the end of the First World War, Singer offered hand, pedal and electric machines for sale. Initially, the electric engines were standard machines with the motor bound on the side, but as more homes gained strength, they became more popular and the motor gradually introduced into the casing.
Maps Sewing machine
Design
Sutures
Sewing machines can make a variety of plain or patterned stitches. Ignoring the strict decorative aspect, more than three dozen different puncture formations are officially recognized by ISO 4915: 1991 standards, involving one to seven separate threads to form a puncture.
Plain stitches fall into four general categories: chainstitch, lockstitch, overlock, and coverstitch.
Chainstitch
Chainstitch is used by early sewing machines and has two major drawbacks:
- The stitches are not self-locking, and if the thread breaks at any point or is not tied to both ends, the entire length of the stitching will come out. It's also torn easily.
- The sewing direction can not be changed much from one punch to the next stitch, or the stitching process fails.
Better stitches are found in lockstitch. Chainstitch is still used today in the manufacture of clothing, although due to its main weakness, it is generally paired with overlock stitching along the same layer.
Lockstitch
Lockstitch is a well-known stitch done by most household sewing machines and most industrial "single needle" sewing machines from two threads, one through a needle and coming from a coil or a space shuttle. Each thread remains on the same side of the stitched material, interlacing with other threads in each pinhole by using the coil drive. As a result, lockstitch can be formed anywhere on the material being sewn; it does not need to be close to the edge.
Overlock
Overlock, also known as "serging" or "serge stitch", can be formed with one to four threads, one or two needles, and one or two loops. Overlock sewing machines are usually equipped with a knife that trims or creates a straight edge in front of the stitching formation. Household and industrial overlock machines are commonly used for garment stitches in knit fabrics or bending fabrics, for garment sutures where the fabric is light enough that the stitches need not be pressed open, and to protect the edges against raveling. Machines that use two to four threads are the most common, and often one machine can be configured for some kind of overlock stitching. Overlock machines with five or more threads typically create a chainstitch with one needle and one looper, and overlock stitching with the remaining needle and looper. This combination is known as "safety seam". A similar machine used for stretch fabrics is called mock safety .
Coverstitch
Coverstitch is formed by two or more needles and one or two looper. Like lockstitch and chainstitch, coverstitch can be formed anywhere on stitched material. One looper manipulates the yarn beneath the stitched material, forming a bottom covering seam against the needle thread. An additional looper on top of the material can form a seam of top cover simultaneously. The thread of the needle forms a parallel row, while the looper thread cuts back and forth all the rows of needles. Coverstitch is so called because the fungus and looper needles cover the edges of raw stitches, just like overlock stitches. It is widely used in garment construction, especially for installing flat trim and seaming where raw edges can be solved in the same operation as forming stitches.
Zigzag stitch
The zigzag is a variant geometry of the lockstitch. This is a back-and-forth suture used where straight sutures will not suffice, as in preventing raveling of fabrics, in stitching of elastic fabrics, and temporarily combining two end-to-edge work pieces.
When making a zigzag puncture, the back and forth movement of the sewing machine needles is controlled by the ridge. As the cam spins, a fingerlike follower connects to the needle bar, rises along the cam and tracks the curve. As the follower moves in and out, the bar of the needle is moved from side to side. Very old sewing machines do not have this hardware so they can not produce zigzag stitches, but there are often shielded attachments that allow them to do so.
Feed mechanism
In addition to the basic movement of the needle, looper and coil, the stitched material must move so that every needle movement cycles involve different parts of the material. This movement is known as bait, and the sewing machine has many ways to feed the material as well as forming stitches. For the general category, there are: drop feed, needle feed, walk, puller, and manual. Often, different types of baits are used on the same machine. In addition to these general categories, there are also unusual feed mechanisms used in specific applications such as connecting feathers, stitching in caps, and blindstitching.
Stop feed
The drop feed mechanism is used by almost all household machines and involves mechanisms under the surface of sewing machines. When the needle is pulled from the stitched material, a set of "feed dogs" is pushed upward through a crack in the surface of the machine, then dragged horizontally through the needle. The dogs are jagged to grasp the material, and "presser foot" is used to keep the material in contact with the dog. At the end of their horizontal movement, the dog is lowered again and returns to its original position while the needle makes the next pass through the material. While the needle is in the material, there is no bait action. Almost all household machines and the majority of industrial machines use drop feeds.
Differential feedback
Differential feed is a variation of a drop feed with two independent dogs, one before and one after the needle. By changing their relative motion, this collection of dogs can be used to stretch or compress the material around the needle. This is especially useful when sewing of stretchy materials, and overlock machines (highly used for such materials) often have differential feedback.
Needle Feed
The needle feed, which is only used in industrial machinery, removes the material while the needle is inside the material. In fact, the needle may be the main feeding force. Some feed needles swing the needle axis back and forth, while other implementations keep the vertical axis as it moves forward and backward. In both cases, there is no feed action when the needle exits the material. Needle feeds are often used in conjunction with modified drop feeds, and are very common on two industrial needle machines. Household machines do not use syringes as a general rule.
Walk
The walking foot replaces the stationary presser's feet with the legs moving along with whatever other feed mechanism the machine already has. As the foot moves, it shifts the workpiece with it. It is very useful for sewing heavy materials in which the feed needle is mechanically inadequate, for sponge or bearing materials where lifting the foot from contact with the material helps in feeding action, and for sewing many layers together where the drop feed will be cause lower. layer to shift out of position with the top layer.
Pulling feed
Some factory machines and some home appliances are arranged with the addition of a pulling feed, which grips the stitched material (usually from the back of the needle) and pulls it with strength and reliability is usually impossible with the others. type of feed. The pull feed is rarely built directly to the base sewing machine. Their actions must be synchronized with the action of the needle and the feed inserted into the machine to avoid damage to the machine. The pullers are also confined to straight stitches, or very similar. Despite the additional costs and limitations, pulling the bait is very useful when making large heavy items such as tents and vehicle cover.
Manual feed
Manual feeds are used mainly in hand embroidery, quilting, and shoe repairs. With manual feed, the length and direction of the stitches are controlled entirely by the movement of the stitched material. Often some form of circle or stabilizer material is used with a cloth to keep the material under proper pressure and help move it. Most home appliances can be set for manual feeding by releasing falling dogs. Most industrial machines can not be used for manual feeding without actually removing dog feed.
Needle
Sewing machines use special needles tailored to their needs and the character of sewn material.
Industry vs domestic
Industrial sewing machines are bigger, faster, and more varied in size, cost, appearance, and task. Industrial machines, unlike domestic machines, perform a single special task and are capable of using long working hours and thus have larger moving parts and relatively much larger motors. Industrial machinery is also more generic; motors for almost any type of machine can work on any brand. Sewing feet and coils between brands can be exchanged. However, with domestic motor engines, and to a lesser extent, coils and sewing feet, is a specific brand.
Motors on industrial machines, such as most components, lamps, etc., Separate, usually mounted to the bottom of the table. The domestic machine has an OEM motor mounted inside the machine. There are two types of motors available for industrial machines: servo motors (which use less electricity and are noiseless when not in use), and more traditional (always rotating, even when not in use) coupling motors.
Social impact
Before sewing machines were invented, the women spent most of their time taking care of their family's clothes. Middle-class housewives, even with the help of a tailor, will devote a few days each month to this task. It takes an experienced tailor at least 14 hours to make a shirt for men; a woman's dress takes 10 hours; and a pair of summer trousers took almost three hours. Most individuals only have two sets of clothes: work clothes and Sunday clothes.
Sewing machines reduce the time to shirt up to one hour and 15 minutes; time to make dress up to one hour; and the time for a pair of summer pants up to 38 minutes. This reduction in labor has resulted in women having a reduced role in household management, and allowing more time for their own enjoyment and the ability to find more jobs.
The use of industrial sewing machines further reduces the burden placed on housewives, removing clothing production from housewives and tailors to large-scale factories. Movements to large-scale factories also resulted in a decrease in the amount of clothing production time, causing clothing prices to drop significantly. This is because manufacturers are able to reduce the number of workers needed to produce the same amount of clothing, thereby reducing costs. Increased supply also lowers costs.
The initial effect of the sewing machine on the worker is positive and negative, but in the long run the negative effect decreases. Many women who were previously busy at home can now find work in factories, increasing income for their families. This makes it possible for families to buy more clothes and goods than ever before. For tailors, home sewing machines allow them to produce clothing for the average person during the period when demand for low-fitting clothing effectively increases their income. When industrial sewing machines initially became popular many tailors worked in factories, as well as those working at home, lost their jobs because that meant fewer workers could produce the same output. In the long run, these unemployed workers along with thousands of men and children will eventually be able to get a job in the work created when the clothing industry grows.
The sewing machine effect on the clothing industry produces major changes for other industries as well. Cotton production needs to be upgraded to suit the demand of new clothing factories. As a result, cotton is grown in new areas that have not been planted before. Other industries involved in the process also benefit from such metal companies providing engine parts and shippers to move an increasing amount of goods. In addition to being important for clothing production, sewing machines are also becoming important in furniture manufacturing with upholstery, curtains and towels, toys, books, and many other products.
New home sewing machine 1917 in the cabinet
See also
- Sew
- Embroidery machine
- List of branded sewing machines
References
External links
- How Sewing Machines Work in HowStuffWorks
- Sewing Machine, Historical Trade Literature. Smithsonian Institution Library.
- Old Sewing Machine and How They Work - with animation
- Museum Online Antique Sewing Machine.
- Housekeeper: A brief history of sewing machines. From the Smithsonian Institution's Annual Report, 1929
- History of Singer sewing machine
Source of the article : Wikipedia
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